The Most Overrated Climbing Advice Right Now (+ Underrated Gems)

🎉 25% OFF your next Realand order with code "hoopersbeta": https://realandnutrition.com/collections/all ☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool 🩹 INJURY-SPECIFIC RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint ⚡ TRAINING EQUIPMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store 📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES: 👨‍⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions 🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/coaching 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES: ➡️ Gear: - $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5 - 10% off Frictitious hangboards with code “HoopersBeta10”: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta - 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA ➡️Performance: - Anti-corporate small-batch coffee (10% off with code "GFHB10"): https://www.groundfallcoffee.com/?ref=HOOPERSBETA - 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": https://macrofactorapp.com/ ➡️Gyms: - The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/ - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental! WHO ARE WE? Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping our affiliate links! ⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro 00:20 Block pulls vs hangboarding 02:30 ARC training 06:13 Plant based protein powder is actually good now 07:14 Running (for climbers) 09:38 Downsizing climbing shoes 11:45 Yielding vs overcoming isometrics for finger training 16:10 Strict rep ranges 20:20 Climbing drills 21:21 “Frictionless” finger training devices 27:51 Tindeq / force gauges 33:09 Pro climber = qualified coach? 📝 SHOW NOTES Episode 163 https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/hype-vs-reality-pt-3 ⚠️ DISCLAIMER Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately. #trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy